In the pink of health

Its gleaming flesh shines with natural oils, yet it is a sweet fish eaten either cooked, smoked or raw. Pauline D. Loh takes a closer look at the salmon.

This must be one of the most popular fish worldwide. While some cuisines serve a salmon steak or fillet fully cooked on stove or grill, much of salmon is eaten raw in countries as far apart as Scandinavia or Japan. Salmon sashimi or sushi is almost a must-have in any respectable Japanese restaurant, which will carefully grade it from the delicately flavored and meltingly tender fat belly strip to the leaner, denser strips along the backbone. Even the juicy salmon head is salt-roasted as a much sought after delicacy.

Lox or gravlax is cured salmon eaten in northern European countries. In Scotland, salmon is cured or marinated in a salt and sugar mixture with herbs or spices added. It is then cold smoked - which means the fish is gradually dried in a smoke-filled enclosure without it coming into direct contact with heat or fire.

In Scandinavia or Russia, salmon is cured in very similar ways, with the main herb used being dill. Sometimes, a strong liqueur is added to enhance the taste and aid preservation.

Apart from the taste advantages, salmon is also a very healthy choice for the dining table. It is high in protein, of course, but mainly, it is appreciated for its high levels of Omega-3 fatty acids and also the presence of vitamin D. The red or orange tint in salmon flesh comes from the pigments of the large amounts of krill or baby shrimps that are so much a part of their diet. These pigments occur naturally in carrots, oranges and tomatoes as well.

Salmon seldom features in our traditional cuisines and it is only now, when fusion is fashion, that we are eating this fish on the Chinese dining table.

Another setback is that this is a fish that needs careful preparation. It can be overwhelmingly strong if it is overcooked and its natural oils may cause it to smell. The Alaskan grizzly bear knows best - salmon is best eaten raw or lightly cured and smoked to retain all its natural sweetness.

Over the years, I have developed a recipe for salt and sugar cured salmon that appeals to my Asian palate. It uses the basic salt and sugar curing but I add lots of minced garlic (which is anti-bacterial), a little chili to spice things up and plenty of freshly chopped coriander or parsley. Dill or fennel tops can be added, but I prefer the earthy taste of the coriander.

Once the salmon is cured, it can be turned into an infinite variety of appetizers and small dishes that will make you the party queen of your set.

Besides, it all tastes really good.

Getting fresh salmon fillets in China can be a challenge, but the Carrefour chain of supermarkets is usually a reliable source. I found my salmon fishmonger at Beijing's Sanyuanli Market, the favorite haunt of expatriate chefs and diplomatic domestic goddesses.

I normally ask for a fresh side of salmon, deboned. But if you are catering for a much smaller group, ask for a large piece of fillet nearer the head end. You will need to trim the sides to shape the fillet, and run your finger against the grain to check for any pin bones that have to be removed.

Here are some tips to remember: After marinating the salmon fillets and wrapping them in cling-wrap, remember to place them in a deep-dish container. This is important as the salt will draw liquid from the fish, and you will have pickling juices dribbling if you use a shallow plate.

Rinse off the herbs and salt solution after you've done curing the fish for 24 hours at least. Pat it very dry, and store it in the chiller for a week, or longer in the freezer.

Recipe | Asian Gravlax

Ingredients:

12 slices of home-cured salmon

1 bunch of spring onions

5 cm knob young ginger

1 tbsp sesame oil

1 tsp salt

Method:

1. Roll up each slice of salmon and sit it on a Chinese spoon. Carefully open up the top edges of the salmon to create a "rose".

2. Wash and dry the spring onions, and discard the dark green tops, keeping only the tender white bulb and the pale green leaves. Chop with a cleaver to finely mince the onions.

3. Peel the ginger and smash it flat with the side of a Chinese cleaver. Mince the ginger very fine.

4. Combine the minced spring onions and ginger and season with salt.

5. Heat up the sesame oil until it is bubbling and pour it over the ginger and onion mixture so it sizzles. Mix quickly and serve the ginger-onion dip with the salmon roses. One good way is to place a dollop of the mix in the center of each salmon rose.

Food note:

This is a very pretty way to present the cured salmon and the spoon catches any drip waiting to happen. Great as an appetizer or an Asian take on tapas.

Recipe | Cured Salmon With Caviar Pearls

Ingredients:

12 slices cured salmon

4-6 tbsp salmon caviar

Black pepper

Method:

1. Roll up the salmon slices and open up the top so each resembles a rose. Repeat with all the slices.

2. Top each salmon rose with a spoonful of salmon caviar.

3. Grind some black pepper over each serving.

4. Chill until ready to serve.

Food note:

This is a bit of luxury but salmon caviar is the perfect match for the cured salmon. The little pearls break open in salty bursts and provide such a lovely flavor contrast. If you cannot get salmon caviar, substitute with the best quality caviar you can afford, but add just a very little. A little drop of sour cream in the heart of the rose will help display the caviar.

Recipe | Salt and Sugar Home-cured Salmon

Ingredients:

2 kg piece whole salmon fillet

3 lemons, thinly sliced

Curing mix:

150 g sugar

150 g salt

150 g garlic, skinned and chopped

2 red chili, roughly chopped

100 g fresh coriander, finely chopped

Method:

1. Check that the fillet is free from scales and bones. Make sure pin bones along the center of fillet have been completely removed. Rinse, wipe dry and cut into two pieces.

2. Mix the salt and sugar together and add the chopped garlic, chopped chili and chopped coriander. Blend thoroughly.

3. Line a deep-dish container with plastic wrap. Scatter some curing mix on the bottom of the plastic lined dish. Place the larger fillet piece skin-side down. Liberally cover the salmon with the curing mix, taking care to cover all the flesh.

4. Place lemon slices on top of the salmon. Tightly wrap the fillet with the plastic wrap and place it in the container.

5. Repeat the process with the other fillet and wrap tightly before placing on the first wrapped fillet. Weight down the fillets with something heavy. I usually use two large cans of peaches.

6. Place the fish inside the fridge and wait 24 hours.

7. Remove the fillets from their plastic wrapping and brush off the curing mix. Pat the fillets dry and store it in a fresh container. The cured salmon is now ready for eating.

Food note:

If you like a herbal mix added to the curing mixture, chop up 50 g dill weed, 50 g sweet basil and a few dried red chili peppers and add to the mix. The simplest way to enjoy the finished product is to serve it thinly sliced over a green salad.