Where a ball tells time

Dovecots for homing pigeons [Photos by Pauline D. Loh / China Daily]

Tall trees provide shade from the midday sun, and suddenly, you realize the air is fresh, very cool and filled with bird song. Bird song? In Tsim Sha Tsui?

This is my favorite part of the Hullett House complex, the elevated garden full of old trees, including an ancient date palm.

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The birds obviously agree and they flit noisily among the foliage of the top branches, loudly giving vent to their happiness. In summer, the lawns beneath are kept cool with an army of sprinklers.

The red whiskered bulbuls are not the only birds here. There are also pigeons. In fact, the Courtyard of 50 pigeons is named in remembrance of the flock that used to carry messages to and from ship to shore in the days before electronic and digital devices made them obsolete.

Hullett House inside is just as full of historical icons that tell stories of its past.

Heavy seasoned beams and lintels carved with the names of Indian constables visiting their colonial cousins, huge and ancient stable doors that weigh a metric ton each, solid staircases that testify to much use and the trampling of feet, little square windows where arms were checked in and out of the armory (now the dim sum kitchen) - these architectural features add unique characteristics and charm.

Other curiosities include the jail cells where pirates and buccaneers were incarcerated, and a solid cast iron fireplace. If you want to fully experience the feeling of stepping back in time, Hullett House offers hotel suites to the visitor, all very well appointed.

 

Otherwise, you can choose to spend a pleasant afternoon here, enjoying a leisurely meal at its French restaurant St. George, or the Stables Grill, where you can lunch al fresco in the garden with the songbirds.

Hullett House has kept to the nostalgia theme with its Chinese restaurant, where old-fashioned dim sum favorites, such as a black sesame jellyroll, are still served.

In fact, if you have breakfast, lunch or tea at any of Hullett House's dining outlets, you get a free 30-minute heritage tour. What's not to like?

Contact the writer at paulined@chinadaily.com.cn.