'Beijing-Istan' taking shape

"Business isn't as good. It's getting harder."

But his restaurant has withstood the changes.

Nemat says he ate out every day when he was working in Yabaolu.

"The food was expensive but not so good," he says.

And only Russian or Chinese food was available.

"I missed my homeland's food so much that I started this restaurant. Azerbaijanis who miss home come here to eat."

About 60 percent of customers come from Soviet countries - especially Azerbaijan - while 25 percent are Chinese and others are from other countries, particularly the Middle East.

Kavkaz takes its name and cuisine from the eponymous region that includes southern Russia, Azerbaijan and Georgia. It recently renovated to feature more prominently regional elements in its decor.

Alishov cites similar motivations for transitioning from logistics to running an Azerbaijani restaurant.

"The food we wanted wasn't in Beijing. We saw the demand was high here and opened Caspi," he says.

The eatery's name comes from the Caspian Sea, the image of which is featured on the eatery's sign alongside architectural landmarks from the country's capital, Baku. Inside, artwork shows Azerbaijani buildings blending into the Great Wall above and the two countries' flags blurring into each other below.

Similarly, Minaret's sign is emblazoned with the Uzbek flag, while folk items adorn the walls, and a statue of a man in traditional clothes greets visitors at the door.

Nemat, who has also lived in Moscow, calls Yabaolu his "third home".

"Those of us who've stayed here for a long time feel like, yeah, there is less business," he says.

"But we love it here even more."

Related: Restrictions hurting Yabaolu