Huairou farmhouse food shines

Nestled on the top floor of a swanky hotel with panoramic views over Yanqi Lake and the surrounding Mutianyu mountains, Views Restaurant has opted for authentic local Huairou dishes instead of fancy international fare.

On the single-page menu are less than 20 items, from cold dishes, such as laohu cai, or the Huairou salad (28 yuan or $4), hot dishes, and desserts using Huairou chestnuts and walnuts.

The grilled rainbow trout (398 yuan or about $58), a must-eat Huairou speciality, is the most expensive dish on the menu.

"Farm-to-table means that we try our best to provide locally sourced ingredients, and give our guests the experience of local Huairou dishes," Sunrise Kempinski Hotel executive chef Kevin Stone says.

"Our chestnuts, chicken, pork and walnuts are all local, and our trout are daily fresh catch from locally owned farms."

The idea to transform the former fine-dining venue into a farmhouse restaurant started when the hotel's French general manager, Brice Pean, took the British chef on a tasting visit a local restaurant.

"The restaurant was busy. We tried the foods, and they were so good!" Stone says. "We told ourselves that this is the food we should serve, but we would present it in a more clean and five-star way."

While many families visit the hotel as a weekend escape from the city, Stone couldn't help noticing that most hotel guests would choose to eat outside the hotel.

The way to change that, he decided, was to avoid attempts at fusion and keep the farmhouse-style dishes the way they are, to maintain the original flavor and keep the price affordable - in an environment with good service, comfortable ambiance and fantastic views.

The hotel also offers a culinary trip for guests to visit the local farms that each day deliver fresh produce to the hotel, from fresh trout to just-picked fruits and vegetables. Visit by the end of March, and you can enjoy all food on the menu at half price, as the hotel promotes its "farm-to-table" concept.

jiangwj@chinadaily.com.cn