Bird nests come home to roost

Producers cash in on demand from China's middle class

BOKPYIN, Myanmar - The cries of amorous swiftlets echo around the dark room, an unlikely gold mine for traders in southern Myanmar who are cashing in on rising demand for the edible nests from China's growing middle class.

Dozens of buildings dedicated to the tiny birds have sprung up around Bokpyin in recent years, their gray concrete structures towering over the humbler wooden and brick homes of the town's human inhabitants.

Every morning and evening the air is filled with high-pitched twitterings blasted from loudspeakers that draw thousands of the swallow-like birds home to roost.

Edible birds nests have become one of the main industries in the town, traditionally known for producing the chewable stimulant betel nut as well as rubber and palm oil.

Traders can charge around $2,000 a viss (equivalent to 1.63 kilograms) for the tiny nests - more than the average person in Myanmar earns in a year.

"We started making man-made bird nests (houses) 10 years ago," said Paing Set Aung, who owns one of the buildings where hundreds of swiftlets make their homes in the rafters.

"Initially there was a house where the birds came to roost by themselves. After that, people started to construct man-made bird houses."

Most of the tiny white nests, which are made from solidified bird spit, are sold to China.

Long considered the reserve of the country's wealthy elite, who ate them during lavish banquets, they are in increasing demand from middle-class consumers.

Today the global edible birds nest industry is estimated to be worth $5 billion, most of it produced in Southeast Asia.

"Bird nests are one of the main businesses in Bokpyin," said local Lin Aung, who built his first house five years ago and is now on his third.

"China is the top buyer of bird nests here."

Many producers cater specifically to women, who believe the nests can help smooth the complexion and make them look younger.

The tonic is also said to help during pregnancy - one of Shanghai's high-end spas solely for mothers-to-be even has its own restaurant and sells gift bags for as much as 3,900 yuan ($566).

Shoppers can also order the products online, including candied birds nests from Myanmar to be eaten as sweets.

"In China, the bird nest has been a really famous and much-loved traditional tonic since ancient times," Zhang Yi said inside her NestCha restaurant.

"It is mild and a little sweet. It is good for women, the elderly, children and men."

Nests are normally harvested three or four times a year, but traders can collect them often as once a month if they are in need of cash.

Producer Aung Kyaw Moe said that, because the swiftlet populations naturally increase as the birds become accustomed to their homes, the industry will only grow in the coming years.

"They are like humans because they come and live here after they get to know the place," he said, standing next to his tall wooden bird-house in Myeik.

Agence France-presse