Hoofing it in the fast lane

Xinjiang nomads use expressway along ancient migration route to herd sheep, camels and horses

Commuters who regularly use a highway running through the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region all know the golden rule when they see a herd of animals in the road: listen to the sheepdogs.

The Guozigou section of the Lianyungang-Horgos expressway runs along part of a route that has been used by nomadic herdsman for thousands of years to move livestock between seasonal pastures.

People from the Kazak ethnic group based in the Ili Kazak autonomous prefecture continue this ancient practice even today.

More than 400,000 sheep, camels and horses are herded along parts of this 33-kilometer section of highway every year - to higher altitudes when the weather heats up, and to the bottom of a valley when the mercury plummets.

For drivers, the rules are clear when encountering livestock: slow down, no car horns, leave one lane clear and heed the instructions of the herdsmen's sheepdogs, who will often stop in front of cars to protect the animals.

On a warm day this month, Wang Xiaojun, 35, sat in his car waiting patiently as a herdsman on a horse and his dogs wrangled more than 100 sheep into a single lane.

A Guozigou police officer who was passing by stopped to help direct traffic. "Next time, make sure you use the livestock lane," he called to the herdsman, pointing to a dirt road beside the highway.

The local government constructed a parallel road specially for livestock in 2013, but some herdsmen still prefer to use the highway because it is more direct and in a better condition.

"I wonder if the officer will issue tickets to all the sheep for traffic violations," Wang joked.

June is traditionally when sheep are moved to pastures in the mountains, where the grass is ideal for fattening up livestock. They will be moved again in the autumn, but the winter migration is the most important, as it can be a matter of life or death. If a herdsman departs too late and is hit by snow, the animals may not make it, with some journeys covering 350 km.

"The sheep that are moved around are healthier and don't get sick," said Mira Halimuraz, 23, whose family has already herded a flock of 300 sheep to their summer pasture.

As the sheep are being taken care of by her brother, Mira and her husband have opened a traditional Kazak yurt for tourists in the mountain overlooking Guozigou Bridge, which spans 360 meters.

"The highway has brought many people to see our beautiful grasslands, which we treasure," she said, adding that her guesthouse - known as Mira's House - is open only between June and September.

"We Kazak know that you have to respect nature and follow its rules. I hope my guests can see that while staying with us," she said.

cuijia@chinadaily.com.cn