Small bites tapas [Photo provided to China Daily]

"We don't try to make it too fancy, and too pretty. We don't work too hard on presentation. Instead, what we do is to use our money to invest in the things that are important for the taste, and quality."

However, eschewing the too fancy and opting for the simple does not prevent The Roots from splashing out on top-notch equipment and boasting to the world about it. A poster near the escalator that takes you to the eatery urges diners and would-be diners to "savor the unparalleled taste that a prestigious Josper oven worth 200,000 yuan ($29,553) produces".

Such ovens, the pride of Spain, are more often seen in the lofty confines of Michelin-starred restaurants kitchens, and The Roots is probably one of few establishments to use the Josper to produce dishes in a lower price range. A handful of flash restaurants in Beijing have a Josper, and these are the kinds of places where a grilled chicken leg can set you back well over 100 yuan.

The Roots revels in its ethos of producing "handcrafted Western food", which, Mansuy says, carries the idea of authenticity, having someone cook the food for you, ensuring quality keeping a tight rein on prices.

"We make most of the stuff ourselves, including smoking salmon and sausages, and we prepare herb sauces fresh every morning for pastas."