From horses to hot spa

The white mud around the edges and bottom of the Blue Lagoon is great for your skin, and the therapeutic waters are a popular therapy for many skin disorders. Photos by Elisabeth Lee / for China Daily

The horse ride toward the hot spring is "as smooth as a cloud" if you get it right.

'So, do you want to tolt?" asked our Eldhestar guide Kristin. It was a wild and windy day out on the lava fields of central Iceland, and we had been riding for about an hour at this point, slowly winding our way out from the stables and up toward the hot springs in the Reykjadalur valley. The route had been rough and rocky but our Icelandic horses were sure-footed and steady as they picked their way up the valley.

Tolting, as Kristin explained, is a peculiar gait found only in Icelandic horses. A sort of cross between a walk and a gallop, the tolt has four beats, superb acceleration and - if you get it right - a ride "as smooth as a cloud". And if you don't get it right, let's just say you probably will feel the effects for a few days whenever you have to sit on a hard surface.

It took a few tries but I managed to get it right in the end. We picked up speed and rapidly made our way up toward Mount Hellisheidi.

At one point, the route got so steep we had to dismount and lead our horses up what seemed like a vertical chute of mud. But as we neared the valley, we could hear the roar of waterfalls below and smell the sulfurous bubbles of the hot springs ahead.

Reykjadalur means "Smoke Valley" and it's easy to see why. The mountainsides here are riven with arteries of hot water that gush out everywhere, forming steaming pools of boiling water.

While the hot springs themselves are too hot to bathe in, riders can take a dip in the deliciously warm waters of the river that runs along the valley. Given that it was 5 C and gusting rain, I declined, choosing instead to nibble on my packed lunch and simply enjoy the stunning view.

This, as it turned out, wasn't my only chance to bathe in Iceland's famous hot springs. The country is covered in them, thanks to its active volcanic base on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge rift zone.

With 250 geothermal areas spawning more than 800 hot springs, you don't have to go far to find one. The most famous one is Geysir in the south, which spurts out a water column up to 60 meters high - no surprise then that this is where the English word "geyser" comes from.