Blue sky, blue sea

Despite some recent layoffs, the service at Porto Carras's two grand hotels never missed a beat. Mealtimes were particular pleasures, graced by attentive waitstaff and picture-perfect seafood and beef orchestrated by award-winning chef Axiotis Paraschos.

The resort features several restaurants that range from "cruise casual" on the beach to gala dinners at the Villa Galini, with a mountaintop view of the seacoast so grand that you half expect Zeus himself to plop down here to watch the sunset.

The resort is a self-contained city of pampered luxury: Golf, tennis and horseback riding are available, as are a recently refurbished spa retreat, and both party beaches and private coves where you and a few friends can enjoy a little solitude as well as natural beauty.

You can visit the winery for a tasting and lunch. Good disciples of Bacchus, the vineyards produce not only the standard European vintages (chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir) but also local varieties that date back to ancient Greece, such as limnio. Many of these wines can also be found in China's Greek restaurants and supermarket wine bins.

You can have an activity-filled day or lounge at the beach with a good book and press a button when you get thirsty. Someone will be at your elbow in a moment.

Simple grilled souvlaki lures diners to the capital's many sidewalk cafes.

In a week of sun, fun and more seafood than we could eat, it was easy to forget recent news reports that might have made us nervous about a holiday in Greece.

Whether we were in pampered seclusion at a holiday resort or roaming the streets of Athens looking for baklava and coffee, we found a nation that was all smiles and - for more than one reason - happy to see us.

Greek olives are traditionally stuffed by hand, with almonds, garlic or peppers.

Scenic Porto Carras has long attracted celebrities like Salvador Dali.