My own private cocoon

Phuket has a reputation for crowds, but couples can find romantic interludes easily on the island.Photo Provided to China Daily

Phuket has more surprises.

More than two centuries ago, Chinese businessmen and migrant workers swarmed the island, seeking their fortunes in the tin mines that drove the port's economy as European traders plied the surrounding waters.

Today the "local" population of the Phuket Old Town is 90 percent Chinese, and while the Portuguese never made Phuket a colony, the legacy of the "Sino-Portuguese era" is vibrant in the old city center's colonial-style architecture and its Chinese food and temples.

Today's Chinese arrivals tend to have made their money already.

A branch of the Shanghai-Hong Kong gallery collective Island 6 has just set up shop in a popular marina, with art that celebrates Chinese heritage. A villa resort, similar to the one we call "ours", is named "Xi'an" and guarded by Terracotta Warriors in a rainbow of hues. In the wedding party celebrating in luxury at our hotel, the bride is a lovely young woman from Shanghai.

Less surprising are the beaches. Phuket is famous for its pristine stretches of luminous sand - and the aquamarine waters and rosy sunsets that frame its postcard vistas. The beaches are still a big draw, most on the north side are fairly quiet while those on the south side can be Party Central. You can get a beer, a massage, a jet-ski, an oh-so-fresh scoop of fried calamari - probably all at the same time if you like.

There are muay thai camps right on the beach, and buffed and tanned instructors ready to help you wind-surf, sail, snorkel or dive.

The most popular (translation: most crowded) area, Patong beach, sports rows of canvas chairs occupied by cheerful Russians that stretched as far as the eye could see.

If that side of Phuket is daunting, you can hop a speedboat for a day trip to a more secluded spot, such as James Bond favorite Phi Phi island or the nature paradise that is Koh Maphrao.