Discovering life and death in Dali's back alleys

A main thoroughfare in Dali Old Town.

In the evening, as the sun sinks below the ancient city walls, the streets teem with people shopping, eating, drinking and soaking in the atmosphere.

Dali is hardly off the beaten track－but it's not difficult to escape the maddening crowd.

Away from the main tourist thoroughfares there is no shortage of cute courtyards with restaurants serving spicy noodles or deep-fried cheese on sticks, a local delicacy.

We spent a day exploring the quieter streets and stumbled upon some fascinating antiques shops. We took a turn and discovered a park with elderly locals playing traditional instruments, such as the erhu (a two-stringed fiddle) and xiao (a type of flute).

The musicians sat on benches surrounding a leafy courtyard while an elderly woman, microphone in hand, stood in the middle as if on a grand stage, singing traditional Chinese opera. Workers sat in the surrounding corridors and pagodas to enjoy the hauntingly beautiful music.

If you're feeling adventurous, it's possible to hike up Cangshan Mountain. But if you want the view without the exertion, the cable car is quicker.

It may be sunny and fine in Dali, but Cangshan Mountain kisses the clouds. The misty peak, with wild nature and stunning waterfalls, provides plenty of spectacular scenery.