An underground battleground

The caves enabled soldiers to fight invaders without leaving their subterranean fortifications.[Photo by Fan Genlin/CFP]

If you go

Diantou village is about half an hour west of Taiyuan by bus.

Qixian is about one hour south of Taiyuan by bus.

Neither destination requires entry tickets, except for courtyard museums in Qixian.

It takes about two hours to travel around Diantou. It’s recommended to find a local tour guide at the foot of the mountain.

It takes about a day for meticulous explorers to tour Qixian.

Local specialties include handicrafts, liquor and vinegar.