Heart of a water town

Nanzha, the southern area of Wuzhen in Zhejiang province, unlike other parts of the water town, still keeps its original look.

Some locals have picked up a tricycle business on their own. They tout their services and promise to take tourists around the old street, explaining local history and anecdotes along the way.

I paid a visit to a building that dates to the late period of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). It got my attention because of a small board that invites entrance for 1 yuan (14 US cents).

The building once belonged to Zhang Houtang, a merchant who shot to fortune before experiencing a crash.

The place features a weathered but still-imposing brick gatehouse and delicately carved red wooden windows that have survived the passage of time.

After a short stay at the house, I stopped by a small diner, with just a few simple chairs and tables, and bought a stinky-tofu roll, which was surprisingly tasty.

The owner, Wu Dongyun, greeted us with a big smile.

"Many guests say they prefer here for not being commercialized, although it might not be as neat as Xizha," Wu tells us.

Wu originally came from Anhui province. She moved to Nanzha with her husband 21 years ago and has witnessed the changes there.

She first helped her husband with his painting business in nearby villages.