36 hours in Casablanca

Black olives with garlic are sold by the kilos in one of the city's open markets. [Photo/Agencies]

10:30 PM

Dancing and Jamming: The strip of clubs and lounges on La Corniche, the water front boulevard, lends itself to barhopping (especially since they actually serve alcohol). Start at the unpretentious La Cal??che, a basement bar hidden down a side street from the Hotel Azur. Bob Marley posters and guitars hang from the ceiling, and the gregarious owner, Albert Cohen, joins jam sessions for an audience of multinational locals; touring musicians often sit in, playing American rock and funk, along with Middle Eastern music, for a mood that is college-level laid-back. For a glossier night, head to Le Cabestan, which could be a restaurant on the French Riviera, and its down-stairs neighbor, the flower filled Rose Bar, overlooking the ocean. In a back room with red velvet banquettes, a crowd can be found dancing, as aD.J. spins a remix of Lykke Li and a medley of David Bowie's Let's Dance into Whitney Houston's I Wanna Dance with Somebody. Bottles chill in ice buckets and dress codes permit-or encourage-a peek of skin.

Sunday

10:30 PM

The Sweet Stuff: In the leafyQuartier Habous neighborhood, near the king's palace, is Patisserie Bennis Habous, a family-owned Casablancan tradition since 1938. Downanar-rowstair well is its slight retail space, with blue and yellow tile walls and white-coated workers ferrying trays of almond pastries from the ovens across the street. Choose from cornes de gazelles, doigts aux sesame, macaroons and more (50 to 130 dirhams per kilo).

12:30 PM

Souvenirs and Tea: With your snacks, you can-wander the streets and nearby square, where there's a small market for ceramics, babouche slippers and rugs. The handicrafts are not as impressive as those elsewhere in Morocco, but the less frantic environment allows time to bargain and talk-don't be surprised if a shopkeeper invites you in for a pot of mint tea. Don't think of turning him down.

The New York Times