Demand runs hot for Michelin-starred street food

A line of 100 people snakes out from a tiny food stall in Singapore's Chinatown, customers impatiently awaiting their turn for a taste of Chan Hon Meng's prized soy sauce-braised chicken.

Singaporean hawker Chan Hon Meng chops braised chicken at his Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle stall in Singapore. ROSLAN RAHMAN / AFP

He has always had loyal customers, but in the days since he was awarded a Michelin star new gourmands have descended on his stall in such numbers that he is struggling to keep up with demand.

Chan is one of two hawkers — so-called because many started out as street peddlers — awarded one star by the culinary bible when it launched its inaugural Singapore guide in late July.

Only one restaurant, French chef Joel Robuchon's eponymous outlet, secured the coveted three-star rating.

"I'd heard of the Michelin guide, but I thought they only gave those out to restaurants," Chan said while chopping up chicken, which is served over rice or thin yellow noodles topped with his now-famous dark soy sauce.

A plate costs just S$2.50 ($1.85), making it one of the cheapest Michelin-starred dishes in the world.

"The fact I have this star shows that simple food like ours is worthy of a global award, too," Malaysian-born Chan said.

His stall, Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle, offers exactly what it says in the name. Like most hawker stalls, the focus is on delivering signature dishes that customers return for.

Chan says he now sells 180 chickens a day, 30 more than his pre-Michelin star average.

"Any more than that and I cannot cope, and I don't want to give people food that is not up to standard," the 51-year-old added.

Since Michelin awarded Tang Chay Seng's stall one star, hundreds have turned up daily for a bowl of minced-meat and noodles.