Plumes of smoke

Traditionally in silk or velvet, the smoking jacket is a leisurely after-dinner eveningwear piece for men.

In the 17th century, when silk was widely traded along the Silk Road, the delicate material originating from China was adored by the European upper classes as a luxurious fabric for clothing. Men, in particular, wanted to be depicted in paintings wearing a silk robe-de-chambre or a long banyan gown as a symbol of their status and wealth.

Tobacco was popular, too; it was brought to Europe primarily from the Americas. Though its use was extensively regulated during the era, smoking was still considered a fashionable act for men. In England, George Latimer Apperson's 1914 book The Social History of Smoking satirically lists "taking tobacco with a grace" as one of the accomplishments of "a complete, well-qualified gentleman".

Enter the smoking jacket, designed to protect the proper gentleman's attire from odours or stains. The dual notions of luxury and comfort made silk and velvet ideal for fabrics; other wool-blended fabrics such as cashmere, merino and plush were also commonly used. Donning this jacket after dinner, men would retreat to the garden or the smoking room with their pipe or a cigar in hand.