Plumes of smoke

In 1926, British businessman Lou Rose designed men's nightwear garments using fine fabrics, creating a more relaxed version of the smoking jacket; the brand is still active today and is now named for Derek Rose, Lou's son. In the US, smoking jackets became a popular item for outerwear among celebrities, from Cary Grant and Frank Sinatra to Katharine Hepburn; the acclaimed actress wore a structured velvet smoking jacket with silk shawl lapels and an adorned belt in the 1942 film Woman of the Year. Other famous figures to wear the style included Playboy magazine creator Hugh Hefner – and Fred Astaire, the legendary Hollywood musical dancer and singer, was allegedly buried in his favourite smoking jacket.

In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent created the famous tuxedo-style suit for women, Le Smoking, as part of his autumn/winter Pop Art collection. Aside from playing with traditional gender roles, it was also controversial at the time because of its sexual implications – relying not on exposure of bare skin, but a more subtle, smouldering look. The collar and shoulder line were adjusted to be more feminine, the curve was emphasised with a narrow waistline and the perfectly cut trousers helped give women's legs an elongated appearance.

Today, Le Smoking, or any piece resembling it, has become a staple in many women's wardrobes, just like the little black dress. For men, the smoking jacket has stepped out of smoky rooms into a variety of occasions, from black-tie affairs to fashion soirees.