As a southern Chinese, I grew up enjoying chicken feet with no baggage whatsoever. We had them braised in a rich soy sauce brew with aromatic dried shiitake mushrooms.
By the end of two hours of slow cooking, the mushrooms were soft and plump, the chicken feet were wonderfully tender and the sauce gummy with the gelatin that was being slowly released.
The chicken feet would almost fall apart when you pick them up, with the skin barely holding it all together. You hardly needed to chew, but just simply allow the whole thing to break up in your mouth. By then, even the bones could be chewed easily.
Another favorite was a soup. A huge pork bone was cracked in half and blanched. This formed the base of the stock. Then, chicken feet, lots of raw peanuts, a couple of Chinese red dates or jujubes were added.
The soup would be simmered until all the ingredients released their sweetness to form a savory bowl of pure heaven.
Imagine the flavor of pork accentuated by the fragrance of peanuts. The soup would be naturally thickened by the melting chicken feet, every mouthful sticky with collagen.
And best of all, these ingredients were all immensely affordable.
Yumcha restaurants serving dim sum are also fond of serving little saucers of steamed chicken feet seasoned in fermented black beans, chili and garlic. This is perennial best-seller and enjoyed by young and old, an appetizer full of umami.
People from Sichuan and Yunnan provinces almost challenge the Cantonese in their love for the "phoenix claws". In fact, the Sichuan people go one better. They do an excellent pickle with blanched chicken feet.
The blanched claws are dropped into the pickling jars that would have help Sichuan's famous pickles. After a week or so, the chicken feet would have soaked up the spicy, tart flavors and have become a favorite snack.
This is such a favorite food that it has become an entire industry and you can buy Sichuan pickled chicken feet at any convenience stores all over China.
And of course, with the spread of the Sichuan mala cuisine style, hot, spicy numbing chicken feet speckled with Sichuan peppercorns and chili flakes are now standard offerings in neighborhood restaurants. Chicken feet are nutritious, delicious and easily available. They deserve a closer look and at least a serious prejudiced attempt.
In these days of serious food wastage, don't you think a frugal chef who makes clever use of every part of the animal should be encouraged?
