Chinese fashion designers take off from European runways

It is still the case that no launchpad better showcases emerging fashion talent than the established London and Paris fashion weeks. It was no different this time either. Chinese fashion designers continued to make their presence felt at the world's major fashion capitals, proof of China's increasing influence on the global fashion stage.

For example, London Fashion Week, from Feb 19 to 23, saw the rising global popularity of Chinese fashion brand Mithridate. Launched in London in 2018 but now based in South China's Guangzhou, Mithridate provides Chinese artisanal craftsmanship beautifully combined with modern aesthetics; it deservedly received rapturous applause at the London Fashion Week. Mithridate has showcased its products at the London Fashion Week for the past eight seasons and each time it has been its traditional Chinese elements, such as embroidery, that have created a buzz.

But what is most important here is Mithridate's switching base from London to Guangzhou. While this has much to do with Guangzhou's geographical proximity to one of China's major manufacturing hubs, it enables the brand to work ever more closely with Chinese embroiderers.

This is the change younger consumers of Chinese fashion are demanding, change that goes beyond lifestyle to a clear values shift, from "material possession" and "conspicuous consumption" to "experience" and a "self-rewarding" experience. A change the company has recognized, and by basing itself in China, is bringing itself closer to.

Other notable Chinese fashion designers who also showcased their creations at the most recent London Fashion Week include the likes of Wang Yuhan and Susan Fang, both noted for extensive and increasingly intricate use of Chinese traditional elements blended with a modern look. But here again, on closer inspection, there is a significant difference in their "home" location. The thing that is common to many aspiring Chinese fashion designers is their Western education. In fact, both Wang and Fang graduated from London's prestigious Central Saint Martins — University of the Arts London.

While Fang continues to be based in London, she makes great virtue out of the relocation back to China's fashion capital, Shanghai. A Shanghai base enables close working relationships with Chinese artisans and greater insight into changing Chinese consumer tastes.

Wang, on the other hand, appears to rely on a London base even though her work is underpinned by the increasingly sophisticated integration of traditional Chinese elements with a modern aesthetic sense.

Paris Fashion Week, which followed hot on the heels of the London Fashion Week in February, also featured Chinese fashion designers. Chief among them with major runway shows were Uma Wang and Ruohan, both continuing to infuse their work with traditional Chinese elements.

Both have a Shanghai base. Even though Feng Chen Wang has a presence in both Shanghai and London, both designers appear to value the importance of a Chinese base, enabling deeper coordination with younger Chinese fashion consumers and allowing for long-term partnerships with Chinese artisans.

Furthermore, the recent global fashion capital weeks have showcased more than just Chinese fashion designers; they have showcased the incredibly rich diversity of traditional Chinese cultural elements, merged with modern fashion design. A prime example was Shanghai-based Qin Xu showcasing Hami Uygur embroidery at the Paris Fashion Week. Being based in Shanghai, the Chinese designer can engage with Hami embroidery artisans such as Ranagul Sopi.

It is clear that traditional Chinese elements, subtly fused with a modern look, are in high demand, globally. We might soon witness the use of more varied local flavors from China's rich source of cultural elements, and vibrant embroidery from far and wide.

Younger Chinese consumers are fuelling this internationalization of China's cultural heritage by modernizing it, another reason why Chinese fashion designers must consider the merits of retaining a permanent base in China or returning soon. Those designers who refuse to do so will put themselves at a considerable disadvantage.

The author is a visiting professor at the University of International Business and Economics and a senior lecturer at the University of Southampton.

The views don't necessarily represent those of China Daily.

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