Haute couture blends craft heritage with high fashion

Under the glow of the runway lights, cloisonne blue rippled like ocean waves across flowing gowns, while the deep sheen of carved lacquer shimmered with each movement.

A glint of filigree — once reserved for courtly treasures — gleamed on statement accessories, turning heritage craftsmanship into high fashion.

This was the opening act of the Kaiwu (Unlocking Craft), New Horizons couture show during Beijing Fashion Week, which opened mid-September in the capital city's China National Convention Center.

The show was hosted by Beijing Gongmei Group, a leading force in Chinese craftsmanship and design, presenting both a visual performance and opening cultural dialogue.

By leveraging the influence of fashion week, Beijing Gongmei Group says the company aims to demonstrate the depth of China's craft heritage, its creative vitality, and its relevance in today's global cultural landscape.

The show's theme was inspired by The Exploitation of the Works of Nature (Tiangong Kaiwu), China's earliest encyclopedia of handicraft production, explains Duan Tiyu, chairman of Beijing Gongmei Group.

"It embodies an Eastern philosophy of creation: our reverence for and inheritance of traditional craftsmanship," he says.

"New Horizons symbolize Beijing Gongmei's readiness to break stereotypes, rejuvenate intangible cultural heritage through practical transformation, youthful design, and fashion-forward creativity, and ultimately redefine the contemporary discourse of Chinese craft aesthetics," he adds.

Breaking away from the conventional static display of arts and crafts, the show brought together state-level craftsmanship with avant-garde fashion design, aiming to open a new chapter for Chinese decorative arts in a modern context.

The event unfolded across three chapters.

The Inheritance: Masterpieces of Craftsmanship highlighted national-level works of art, including those of Beijing's Eight Imperial Handicrafts (Yanjing Bajue) and ceremonial treasures created for state occasions.

The Renewal: Tradition Reimagined showcased how ancient techniques gain new vitality when integrated with modern design, presenting fashion accessories and lifestyle products that bring traditional wisdom into daily life.

The Craft and Harmony explored the fusion of heritage techniques with practical functions, offering contemporary creations that embody both artisanal skill and sustainable living concepts.

"With the rise of 'China-chic' and growing cultural confidence, the fashion industry has become an important arena for reconstructing the value of traditional arts and crafts," Duan notes.

Within this space, haute couture represents both the extension and elevation of craftsmanship in the modern era, gradually reshaping the cultural ecosystem and industrial landscape of fashion, he says.

"Our goal is to redefine the standards of 'luxury' and 'haute couture' with a distinctly Chinese perspective," he adds.